Trip Report: Hoh River Trail
By Kirsten Anderson
Having lived in the breathtaking Pacific Northwest for most of my life, it’s almost a travesty that I’ve barely scratched the surface of the enchanting Olympic Peninsula. That’s about to change! My husband and I usually shy away from National Parks because of our beloved dog, but this week was special—it was our anniversary! We decided to board the dog for a little adventure and, to our delight, snagged overnight permits at several stunning campsites along the Hoh River Trail just three weeks in advance. The limited availability shaped our itinerary, but it turned out to be a stroke of luck, leading us to the perfect spots for an unforgettable journey!
Whether you're journeying from Portland or Seattle, reaching the Hoh River Visitor Center is a four-hour adventure in itself. We’d heard tales of the infamous parking lot line stretching up to two hours, so we made the savvy choice to leave later in the day to dodge the bustling tourist crowds. Arriving at the park entrance by 4 PM, we were pleasantly surprised to wait only 40 minutes! However, parking was a bit of a hunt; we circled around a few times before snagging a spot. But here’s the fun part: unlike the remote trailheads we’re used to, this National Park boasts clean bathrooms with running water! Inside the Visitor Center, we had a quick chat with a ranger who confirmed that there had been no recent bear sightings, but a few cougars had been spotted. Yikes! Plus, she warned us to keep our distance from the elk herd with their adorable calves. This trip was already shaping up to be a wild adventure!
Our Hoh Trail Stats:
Day 1: Visitor’s Center to Happy Four
Miles 6.5 miles
Elevation Gain: 476 ft
With my Swift V backpack fully loaded with a bear can, we set off from the trailhead just after 5 PM, ready to embark on our adventure! As we meandered through the awe-inspiring moss-covered old-growth forest, we soaked in the towering trees and the magic of nature for nearly six miles. Finally, we arrived at Happy Four camp, which is a bit of a head-scratcher since it follows Camp Five! We were lucky to find one of the last available sites, and while it wasn’t exactly glamorous, it was nestled right on the riverbank—a perfect backdrop for our evening. As dusk began to paint the sky in soft hues, we hurriedly set up our Haven Ultralight Tent, eager to test it out together for the first time. As we made dinner by the river, listening to the rushing water created a symphony around us. We felt an exhilarating sense of peace, finally fully disconnected from our phones, and reconnecting with each other and the beauty around us.
They say one of the most common accidents in backpacking is burns, and now I totally understand why. In a moment of carelessness, I didn’t secure my pot handle, and as I poured boiling water into my dinner, it splashed all over my left leg and foot. Panic set in as I quickly yanked off my sock and shoe, plunging my foot into the cool river, but I could already feel the burn starting to blister—a solid second-degree burn on the very first night of our multi-day backpacking trip. Thankfully, I had some burn gel with lidocaine in my minimalist first aid kit, which dulled the pain for about ten minutes. Back in our spacious tent, I swallowed three ibuprofen and two Tylenol, then asked my husband to guide me through some breathwork to ease my racing heart and the searing pain. As I finally drifted off to sleep, a wave of uncertainty washed over me—was this the end of our adventure before it even truly began?
Day 2: Happy Four to Lewis Meadow
Miles: 6.2
Elevation Gain: 689 ft
Given that we were in a lush rainforest, it was no surprise to wake up at 4 AM to a gentle patter of rain on the tent. Fortunately, my burn had settled down and was no longer throbbing. With just five more miles to our next campsite, we took our time, savoring the chance to rest a little longer while the rain eased. Once it let up, we brewed coffee and prepared breakfast by the river, relishing the tranquility of the moment. We completed our chores, hoping our tent might dry out a bit before packing it up. After assessing my burn and tending to it, I made the call to keep moving. By 10 AM, we were back on the trail, ready for the day ahead. The rain had left the trail excessively muddy, and navigating around the deep, squelching patches became a slow and careful dance, but we were intrigued by what lay ahead!
After about 2.25 miles, we approached a potential water crossing, but the trail continued along our side of the river. Checking our maps, we noted that no crossing was indicated, so we confidently pressed on. However, the trail took a turn for the worse, becoming a maze of blowdowns and tricky climbs. This was definitely not the heavily trafficked National Park path we had expected! We decided to drop our packs, fire up our Rockie Talkies, and my husband ventured out to see if he could locate the main trail. After some exploring, we realized it was best to turn back and regroup.
On our way back to the official water crossing, we stumbled upon a well-traveled, flat tree that made for an easy crossing. We couldn’t believe our luck! This tree led us right to a nice, well-maintained—albeit muddy—trail. Finally back on track, we powered ahead to the boarded up Ranger Station, where we paused for a snack break. After a quick trip to the privy, we packed up and hiked another mile to Lewis Meadow. Despite our slow morning and unexpected detour, we arrived at camp by 2 PM, thrilled to find we had our pick of the best riverside sites.
After selecting the perfect riverside site, we set up our damp tent, eager to hang out, explore and enjoy our leisurely afternoon. Once camp was established, I turned my attention to my burn. The combination of sweat, friction from hiking, and the humidity had made it tricky to keep the bandages in place, and unfortunately, the blisters had already burst. But it wasn’t all challenges; since this was our anniversary trip, we had each secretly packed a stash of chocolate! We delighted in creating another chocolate vault-cuterie board, savoring the flavors of the different types of chocolate we had each brought. The chocolate not only lifted our spirits but also helped to dull the pain, making our little celebration even more special!
This was our first trip with the Haven Tarp Tent, and I love that we figured out how to stake out the guy lines using our trekking poles to add height to the tent—it really opened up the space and made it feel so roomy! Plus, the guy lines doubled as fantastic laundry lines, perfect for hanging up wet gear or drying out our socks after a long day. This setup does require either two sets of trekking poles or bringing the tent poles, which we opted for. It was such a smart choice, especially since we anticipated leaving the tent up while we tackled our big day hike to the glacier.
Day 3: Lewis Meadow - Blue Glacier - Lewis Meadow
Miles: 15.4 miles
Elevation Gain: 4954 ft
This was our actual anniversary, and it turned out to be the most epic day of our trip—glacier day! We had hoped to secure permits for campsites closer to Blue Glacier, but in hindsight, I’m really glad things worked out as they did. While it meant a longer day, we were able to leave our tent set up as a basecamp and just take what we needed for the day hike. While the Haven Tarp Tent can use trekking poles, we opted to bring tent poles so we wouldn't have to collapse our tent while we were out exploring.
As we made our way up to Blue Glacier, even though my pack wasn’t fully loaded, the Swift V backpack felt like the perfect day pack, fitting comfortably and securely as we tackled the long day hike.
We were out of camp by 7:15 AM. The first two miles from Lewis Meadow were relatively flat, allowing us to ease into the journey. But as the trail curved around the river bend, the real climbing began, and didn’t let up for the next 5+ miles. We decided to take a break at Elk Lake to filter some water and make a hot breakfast, hoping for a breathtaking view of an alpine lake. Unfortunately, access to the lake was quite limited, so we ended up cooking at the shelter above the water instead. I was really glad we hadn’t been able to get a permit to camp there—it would have been a long slog without the reward of a stunning lake view to make it worthwhile! Despite that, we enjoyed our break in the shelter, fueling up for the final ascent ahead.
As we continued our climb, both of us buzzed with anticipation for the ladder section, located about a quarter mile before Glacier Meadows. We passed a couple who had decided to bail halfway down the ladder, which made us exchange a knowing glance—definitely not the best omen. When we finally reached the infamous ladder, we found three people ahead of us and a very narrow trail to wait on.
We took a moment to observe their climbing techniques, and I quickly decided I wouldn’t be holding onto the rungs. Instead, I planned to downclimb while gripping the rope, using the rungs as steps. When it was my turn, I carefully stepped out onto the trail toward the ladder—this was the crux of the entire trail, in my opinion—and grabbed the rope. My technique felt solid, and as I descended, I felt secure and in control. What a rush!
On the other side of the ladder, we faced a steep scramble back up to the trail, but soon enough, it opened up into a delightful stretch through the forest leading us to Glacier Meadow. Though the meadow was small, it was bursting with vibrant wildflowers, even if we had to contend with a swarm of pesky mosquitoes. Given the effort it took to reach this point and the somewhat limited views, I was really glad we were doing this as a day hike. However, if our goal had been to summit Mount Olympus, this would have made an ideal basecamp.
At this point, we faced a choice between two trail options: a quick .4-mile trek to a lower moraine with views of the glacier, or a one-mile climb straight up to what promised to be a more spectacular vista. We got the recommendation to go UP, and up we went! Luckily, the trail soon broke free from the green tunnel, and we found ourselves in the enchanting alpine environment with a few snow crossings, everything that my heart had been longing for.
The climb was steep, but surrounded by vibrant alpine wildflowers and expansive views, I hardly noticed the effort. The real magic unfolded as we reached the top of the ridge—the glacier loomed more than 100 feet below us, and there it was: Mount Olympus in all its majestic glory, breathtaking and awe-inspiring.
We settled into a perfect spot, taking in the view while snapping photos, enjoying a leisurely lunch, exchanging anniversary cards, and indulging in even more chocolate. It was truly the ideal setting for our anniversary celebration, a moment etched in our memories forever!
Knowing we had a long hike ahead of us, including a 5,000-foot descent back to camp, we limited our glacier gazing to just 45 minutes before starting our way down. The hike down was mostly uneventful, but the ladder section certainly added a bit of spice! My husband helped an older hiker reach the rope, cheering her on as she navigated her descent down the ladder rungs. We both made it back up the ladder and onto the trail just as about six hikers lined up on the other side. We felt relieved not to have to wait in another ladder line!
As we left the ladder section, we watched the new arrivals approach the tricky descent with visible trepidation, and a few ultimately decided to turn back.
Once back in the green tunnel, we shifted our focus to covering ground quickly, eager to return to camp where our bear cans and dinner awaited. We made it back by 7 PM, completing the nearly 12-hour round trip with plenty of breaks along the way.
Fortunately, my burn was pain-free! I made sure to keep it clean and dry, and it ended up being a non-issue on our long day. What a relief!
Day 4 Lewis Meadow - Five Mile Island
Miles: 6.2
Elevation Gain: 374 ft
After our long day and big climb, we decided to indulge in some well-deserved rest, sleeping in until 7 AM. We savored a leisurely coffee, breakfast and a few games of Catan by the river, soaking in the peaceful surroundings. We didn’t leave camp until 12:15, with just six miles ahead to our next campsite. We could have easily just hiked out, but we wanted to relish another day in the backcountry, enjoying the comfort of our tent.
As we set off down the out-and-back trail, we re-entered the green tunnel, passing by several meadows along the way. Even though we had trekked this path before, we couldn’t help but be awed by the gigantic trees and the vibrant moss that adorned the trail. Each step felt like a gentle reminder of the beauty of this wild place, making our return just as magical as the journey in.
We had heard that camping on the island was an option, but we couldn’t find a clear path that didn’t involve getting our feet wet. The first site we claimed was right by the river, but it was so close to the rushing water that we worried our tent might wash away if the river swelled. While the view was stunning, the roar of the water was overwhelming and not exactly ideal from a Leave No Trace perspective, even if it was an established site.
So, we moved a few hundred feet inland to a grove of towering trees next to a meadow, and almost immediately, deer strolled through our camp—absolute perfection! Once the tent was up, my husband wasted no time; he flopped down and fell asleep almost instantly, a well-deserved nap after our quiet stroll of a day.
Day 5: Five Mile Island - Trailhead - Home
Miles: 5.3
Elevation Gain: 259 ft
Knowing it was our last day and that we had a long drive ahead, we woke up early and savored our coffee by the river before hitting the trail by 8 AM. With the trailhead so close and surrounded by the stunning old-growth forest, the miles back to the parking lot were buzzing with fellow hikers. Along the way, we even spotted a large deer a few hundred feet from the Visitor Center—there’s a reason this place is a National Park.
Speaking of hikers, it’s amusing how you can spot a day hiker from a backpacker. Aside from the size of their packs, day hikers have that unmistakable scent of laundry detergent and dryer sheets. While some might think it smells fresh and clean, I’ll take the earthy aroma of a hiker who hasn’t showered recently over dryer sheets any day.
Back at the trailhead, we swung by the Visitor Center and snagged a National Parks passport to kick off our stamp and sticker collection—exciting! After a quick wardrobe change in the parking lot, we hit the road and couldn’t help but gawk at the insane line of cars waiting to enter the park. The estimated wait time was likely around three hours, but hey, it was a federal holiday.
On our way out, we treated ourselves to some coffee at the Hard Rain Café and then stopped at Kalaloch Lodge for burgers. Even though this was kind of a leisurely backpacking trip, it turned out we were both starving. We made a few more stops at several beaches, exploring the incredible old-growth driftwood that lined the shore. Each moment felt like a celebration of nature’s beauty, and it was the perfect way to wrap up our unforgettable anniversary trip to the Olympic Peninsula.
We will definitely be back to explore more of this magical corner of the country.
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